云纺谣 | Ode to Yunfang

Toyota Loom. By Liu Kaida 

丰田（TOYOTA）织布机。刘凯达摄

I once tried to describe Yunfang with one word, but after just three seconds I gave up; one second of excitement, one second of entanglement, and one second of relief.

曾想要找一个词来概括云纺，但从开始到结束，只坚持了三秒：一秒激动，一秒纠结，一秒释怀。

But these three seconds felt as long as decades. During those three seconds, the whole life story of Yunfang was replayed in my mind: its establishment during the Anti-Japanese War, the “golden 10 years” after the reform and opening up, the transformation in the wave of market economy and the turn-around in recent years to adapt to the times.

但这三秒，也如数十年一般久远。久到云纺从抗战时期的建成、改革开放后的“黄金10年” 、市场经济发展浪潮中的转型，以及近年来顺应时代的“转身”，都跑马灯似的在脑海中过了一遍。

It is incredibly difficult to describe its 87 years of history in just one word. From Yunnan Textile Mills to Yunfang Wholesale Market and today’s Yunfang Cultural and Creative Park, Yunfang, with its long history, is still hustling and bustling.

一个词，难以盛下她拥有的87个春夏。从云南纺织厂，到云纺批发市场，再到如今的云纺文创园，已是耄耋的云纺，奔流依旧。

No. 668, Huancheng South Road is no longer the old Yunfang in the minds of Kunming people. Let us use a few questions to get re-acquainted with her.

当我们将目光聚焦于环城南路668号，正在演绎的，已不是昆明人脑海深处的老云纺。让我们以这样的问答，重新认识她。

Q

What is the most popular kind of blue at present?

A

Klein blue.

问

时下最流行的蓝是什么蓝？

答

克莱因蓝。

When Zhang Xiaonan, full of excitement, put on her bargain from this year’s “Double Eleven Festival” — a Klein blue knitted jacket — and showed it to her grandmother, the old woman was taken aback for a while, before she finally said, “Oh, girls still wear yindan blue today? It is beautiful.” The girl anxiously stamped her feet, saying “Grandma, this is Klein blue!” After all, in her mind, yindan blue she knew when she was a kid was the color of the headscarves of old women in the countryside and aprons of old women, which had nothing to do with fashion.

当张小囡满心欢喜地穿上今年“双十一”的战利品——一件克莱因蓝色的针织外套，在外婆面前嘚瑟，老太太先是一愣，接着不解地说：“哎呦呦，现在的女娃娃些居然还会穿阴丹蓝？细瞧瞧还怪好看的。” 这妹子急得直跺脚：“阿婆阿婆，这是克莱因蓝！”毕竟外婆打小认识的阴丹蓝，是乡下老太太的头巾，是街子上大妈的围裙，和时尚毫无关联。

Clothing Exhibition in Different Eras. By Liu Kaida 不同年代的服饰展示。刘凯达摄

The 79-year-old grandmother walked into her room and from an old-fashioned suitcase under the closet, she took out a yindan blue slanted cheongsam that had been preserved for many years. She held the dress up to her granddaughter and said “This color was fashionable in my youth too. The fabric was made by Yunfang.” Zhang Xiaonan looked at their reflection in the mirror and did not know if to laugh or cry; the colors were exactly the same. There and then she realized that fashion goes in circles.

79岁的外婆走进房间，从衣柜底下的老式皮箱里翻出珍藏多年的阴丹蓝斜襟旗袍，往外孙女身上一比：“喏，我们年轻时候的时髦又回来咯，布好像还是云纺的。”张小囡看着镜子里的一对祖孙哭笑不得：不能说毫不相干，只能说一模一样。时尚是个轮回，她真是信了。

Yunfang represents history of light industries in Yunnan.

一个云纺，一部云南轻工史。

For Centray·Exhibition Area of the Mission and Birth of the Yunfang. By Liu Kaida 百年·云纺使命与诞生展示区。刘凯达摄

In the Yunfang Museum, the deep sound of a Toyota loom can still be heard, as if it has never stopped for the last 80-odd years.

在云纺博物馆内，一台丰田织布机在低沉的声响中运转，仿佛在80多年的岁月中从未歇过。

This museum, which records the industrial culture of Yunnan, the memory of old Kunming, and the history of Yunfang, was officially opened in late 2018. Chen Lan, the curator, explained to the visitors in a slow and gentle voice that at the beginning of the last century, every person in Yunnan owned an average 300 grams of cotton yarn that had been produced by Yunfang, and that girls in yindan blue cheongsams represented the modernity of Yunnan. “Initiated in 1934, and built and put into production in 1937, generations of people have grown up with the brand Yunfang, which has become the memory of the times in the minds of many people in Yunnan.”

这座承载了云南工业文化、老昆明记忆、云纺历史的博物馆于2018年底正式开馆。馆长陈岚用缓慢轻柔的语调向参观者介绍：上世纪初，平均每个云南人身上，就有300克棉纱出自云纺，身穿阴丹蓝旗袍的时髦姑娘，代表了最摩登的云南。“1934年筹备，1937年建设投产，云纺的品牌伴随着几代人成长，是很多云南人心中的时代记忆。”

Ran Xi, a “post-95” and an “old Kunmingness” said Yunfang represented “liveliness” when he was a kid. “It was hustling and bustling every day, with the endless hawking of the vendors. What I liked the most is that my dad drove his old-fashioned Mazda to the parking lot where he would drive the car around and around in circles. At that time, even the parking lot was very fashionable. The toy wholesale city, with its dazzling selection of dinosaurs, soldiers, racing car toys, was my favorite,...” Three years ago, when Ran Xi came back to Yunfang, he immediately recognized the parking lot, which now has become the “cloud magnetic space” of Yunfang Science and Technology Park.

“95后”的“老昆明”染熙，小时候对云纺的印象就是“热闹”两个字。“每天都是人来人往的景象，叫卖声络绎不绝。我最喜欢的，就是我爹开着他那辆老式的马自达，带着我们开到一圈连着一圈、像“大大泡泡卷”一样的停车场，当时觉得这里连停车场都很洋气。玩具批发城是我的最爱，琳琅满目任挑选，有恐龙、大兵、赛车军团……”三年前，染熙来到了久违的云纺，他认出了小时候的那个停车场，现在已成为云纺科技园的“云磁空间”。

The Weaving Loom Exhibited in the Yunfang Museum. By Liu Kaida

云纺博物馆展示的织布机。刘凯达摄

Q

How many sides does Yunfang have？

A

Several sides.

问

云纺有几面？

答

N面。

At 3:30 in the morning, when the street performers are still singing on Yunfang East Road, there are already long queues of taxis at the entrance of the archway. The brightly lit streets give those who go home late the warmth of a home. The night is the most beautiful thing in the mortal world.

凌晨三点半，云纺东路上，街头艺人的歌声还在徜徉，牌坊门口的出租车早已排起长龙。灯火通明的街道，让那些晚归的人儿感到一股家的温暖。人间烟火，越夜越美。

This is Yunfang in Li Na’s eyes. On her way home after working overtime, she took a photo of the lively night in Yunfang.

这是李娜眼中的云纺。加班晚归的她，抬起手机随手一拍，满屏溢出的，是夜妆云纺的活色生香。

In the 24-hour hot pot restaurants, people who come through the neon nights will get rid of their depression and exhaustion, and after they have put food in the stomachs, their joy is restored. Buskers sing with hoarse voices as people buy fried pork ribs at the street food stalls to reward themselves and enjoy life after a hard day’s work.

24小时营业的火锅店，迎接着从霓虹闪烁的夜色中散场的人们，苦闷、欢乐和疲惫，随着“七上八下”的毛肚滑入肚肠；嗨唱过后的沙哑嗓音，混进了路旁的吉他弹唱，左边还未打烊的小摊上点一份炸排骨，算作对自己好好工作、尽情享受生活的犒赏。

In Xiao Lin’s eyes, Yunfang represents a lifetime of romance. Three years ago, her stomach filled with butterflies, she put on her beautiful wedding dress, and married the one she loved the most.

孝琳眼中的云纺，是一辈子的浪漫。三年前，她披上最美的婚纱，嫁给了最爱的那个他。

Collections Exhibition. By Liu Kaida 藏品展示。刘凯达摄

Going to Yunfang from one side of Haigeng Road and walking across the “Confessions Road”, you will arrive at Xizunlong Marriage Square where her wedding ceremony was held. The “Ten Mile Peach Forest”, “Tropical Road”, “Flower Road” are all dreamy and romantic. Xizunlong Marriage Square does not only have banquet halls of different styles, but also executive chefs who have worked for the Diaoyutai State Guesthouse.

从海埂路一侧进入云纺，走过“告白路”，就是她举办婚礼的玺尊龙婚尚广场。3D投影营造出来的“十里桃林”“热带风情”“繁花之路”……梦幻而浪漫。不仅有风格各异的宴会厅，还有曾供职于钓鱼台国宾馆的行政主厨。

San Shi describes Yunfang with a big note, he often visits Yunfang Music Square. Piano and guqin music flow out from an unknown music company. Piano, guitar, cucurbit flutes, guqin, pipa, saxophone, here you will find what you are looking for. At present, it is the most comprehensive and largest musical instrument market in Southwest China.

若让三石描摹云纺的模样，他定会画一个大大的音符。云纺音乐广场，是他最常去的地方。不知从哪家乐行传来若有似无的钢琴声，和着隐隐的古琴悠扬。钢琴、吉他、葫芦丝，古琴、琵琶、萨克斯……应有尽有。目前，这里已是西南地区品类最全、规模最大的乐器市场。

Of course, the Music Square does more than just selling musical instruments. It often introduces creative music talents and hosts various concerts. There are performing spaces for artists, stage plays, and films, but also a special music base for training, performances, music creation, and large-scale music festivals.

音乐广场，当然不只售卖乐器那么简单。引入音乐创作人才，举办各类音乐会，已形成常态。这里拥有音乐、舞台剧、艺术电影等演艺空间，培训、演艺、音乐创作、大型音乐节的特色音乐基地，正在形成。

Throwing yourself into the ocean of books in the Book Culture Plaza, visiting 11 countries in Southeast Asia in one day in the Southeast Asia Market, and going to the Magic Box Market are new ways to tour Yunfang. You can also encounter the “Marvel Universe” in the animation zone...Here, history and technology, music and love, art and reading, all blend together.

到图书文化广场沉浸于书的海洋，在东南亚商城一日逛遍“十一国”，魔盒集市是打开云纺的新方式，于动漫专区邂逅整个“漫威宇宙”……历史与科技，音乐与爱情，美术与阅读，交汇融溶。

Yunfang, Yunfang... who is singing the ode to Yunfang? In music, you can talk about the past and the present. The sound of the ode is growing stronger amidst the winds of change.

云纺，云纺，谁在唱歌谣。一曲声未了，清谈昨夜，再话今朝。中流击水，浪沙淘尽，再唱云纺谣。

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